Golden cod cakes with sweet chilli dip

Fish cakes have a reputation for falling apart in the pan, and I think most of that comes from wet mixtures and impatient flipping. This version is forgiving. The cod goes into the food processor with the curry paste and an egg yolk, which gives it enough binding to hold its shape without needing a pile of breadcrumbs. Once the mixture is smooth, the French beans and coriander go in by hand so you still get a little bite from them.

A quick word on the fish itself. Cod is a lean white fish with soft, flaky flesh, so it takes flavour well but can dry out if it sits under a hot grill for too long. That is why the patties get a light brush of oil before they go under the heat, and why three to four minutes a side is plenty. You want them golden at the edges and just set through the middle, not squeaky.

Red Thai curry paste is doing most of the work here. It brings chilli, lemongrass, garlic and a little shrimp paste depth, so you don't need much else in the patties. If you like things hotter, stir an extra spoon into the mixture. If you are feeding someone who doesn't want heat, cut the paste back to one tablespoon and let the lime zest carry the flavour.

Leftovers keep well in the fridge for a day, covered. Flake them into a warm wrap with shredded lettuce and a spoon of the dipping sauce, or crumble them over a bowl of cold rice noodles with cucumber. They also reheat in a low oven, though they lose some crispness, so I'd eat them cold or pulled apart rather than microwaved.

For a simple meal, serve the cakes with a plate of cucumber ribbons, a few radishes and a bowl of steamed rice. If you want something more filling and still in the same spirit, try Ginger pork noodles with spring vegetables on another night, or pair these with Stir Fried Chicken with Lime and Basil for a fuller spread.

The sauce is the part people ask about most. It is honey, chilli sauce, lime juice, coriander and black pepper, and it is sweet, sour and sharp all at once. Make it while the cakes cook. It keeps in a jar in the fridge for several days, and it is good spooned over grilled prawns or a spoon of plain rice too.