Hearty Black Pea and Vegetable Sambar

Kala vatana, the dried black peas that show up in so many homes across western and southern India, are a quiet workhorse of the pantry. They are small, dense and earthy, and they hold their shape in a long simmer better than most pulses. This sambar leans on them for body, so you get a thick, comforting pot without needing much else to fill it out. Black peas are also a good source of fibre, which is one of the reasons they turn up so often in everyday cooking.

A few things make this one work. Soak the peas overnight, because they need time to soften before the pressure cooker can do its job. Mash them well once they are cooked. That mashed portion is what gives the broth its creamy, rounded texture, and it means you do not need a lot of thickening. Add the tamarind carefully. Two teaspoons of pulp is enough to give that sour note that makes sambar taste like sambar, and it is easy to overdo.

Drumstick is the vegetable people either love or wonder about. Its pods are fibrous, so cut them into short lengths and let them cook until the flesh pulls away easily from the stringy edge. Red pumpkin and bottle gourd melt into the broth and add sweetness, which balances the tang nicely.

Leftovers keep well. Sambar often tastes better the next day once the spices have settled, so make a double batch if you can. Store it in the fridge for up to three days, and loosen it with a splash of water when you reheat it, since the peas will drink up liquid as they sit. It also freezes without trouble for a month or so.

Serve it hot with steamed rice, or with idlis or dosas if you want a more filling breakfast or supper. A spoonful of plain yoghurt on the side cools the chilli, and a simple cucumber or onion salad adds a fresh crunch. If you are building a meal around it, a dry sabzi or a light dal is a nice companion, and our Fiery Red Garlic Chutney brings heat and garlic to the table if you like things sharper. For a second vegetable dish alongside, the Sweet and Spicy Bitter Gourd Sabzi pairs well with the tangy broth, and a bowl of Ridge Gourd and Yellow Lentil Dal makes the spread feel complete.

Salt is the one thing to adjust to your own needs, so taste as you go and season to suit the people you are feeding. The flavour comes from the tamarind, the spices and the curry leaves, so you may find you need less salt than you expect.