Savoury Red Millet and Sesame Pancakes

Ragi, or nachni as many families call it, is a small reddish millet that has been part of everyday cooking across parts of southern and western India for a very long time. Ground into flour, it has a earthy, slightly nutty taste that sits nicely next to sharp onion and green chilli. These pancakes are a good example of how the grain can carry a savoury dish without any help from wheat.

Something worth knowing about millet flour is that it does not behave like wheat. It has no gluten to stretch, so the dough will not feel elastic the way a chapati dough does. That is why the batter here is loose and why you dampen your fingers before patting each portion into a circle. Wet fingers keep the dough from tearing and sticking, and a little patience with the shaping is all it takes. If a pancake cracks at the edge, press the broken bit back together with a wet fingertip and carry on.

Keep the pan at a steady medium heat. Too hot and the outside browns before the middle has set, too cool and the pancake just sits there looking pale. A thin film of oil is enough, and you can add a few drops more when you turn each one. Stacking them on a plate under a clean cloth keeps them soft while you finish the rest.

These pancakes are good for a quick lunch with a bowl of plain yoghurt or a spoonful of tomato chutney on the side. For a fuller plate, serve them alongside a simple dal or a bowl of cooked vegetables. If you want to make a meal of it, Savory Chana Dal and Vegetable Pancakes is a lovely companion, since the two pancake styles share the same spirit of savoury flour and fresh herbs. For something heartier, Spicy Chettinad Egg Curry gives you a rich, saucy partner to tear the pancakes into.

Leftovers keep in an airtight container in the fridge for a day or so. Warm them briefly in a dry pan so they turn pliable again, rather than in the microwave, which can make them rubbery. They also fold well around a little leftover vegetable filling for a packed lunch.